Pier W sails in to port with sleek new look
By Cynthia Schuster-Eakin
happenings
Published Sept. 7, 2005

Pier W, a Cleveland landmark restaurant for more than 40 years, returns to port after undergoing a $3.5 million makeover. The 150-seat restaurant has been closed since November to allow for the renovation.

Transformed from the cabin of a pirate's ship, the interior of Pier W is now reminiscent of an elegant luxury liner. From the expanded windows to the cloud-like ceiling, every element of the restaurant has been completely renovated. "Opinions of boat interiors have been ratcheted up considerably because of the Europeans approach to designing, building and sailing passenger ships," said Ronald Reed, principal with Westlake Reed Leskosky, the Cleveland-based architecture firm that headed up the renovation.

With location their prime consideration, the architecture firm chose to summon the lake into the space using water as the main theme. ""Our interior design and choice of sophisticated materials is evocative of water in various states," Reed said. Sections of glass in a watery rippled texture are suspended from the ceiling to create a visual divider between the wine cellar and the lounge. The blue floor is meant to create a sense of flow with the lake. Seating has been reconfigured so that every table enjoys a spectacular view. "Prior to the makeover, the view was a surprise and was not totally available," Reed noted. Instead of descending into a dark interior, diners now step into a glass elevator that lowers them past a salt water aquarium to be greeted by a maitre d' standing at an ice-like station.

The transformation did not stop with the appearance of Pier W. During the restaurant's reconstruction, Executive Chef Anthony Phenis worked with world-renowned food consultant Tim Cushman to remake the menu into a trend setting culinary presentation. Together, they created seafood, meat and pasta dishes that have elements of classic French style, infused with the flavors of Italy and the Pacific Rim. Menu highlights include simply prepared fresh seafood. The kitchen even boasts its own refrigerated fish cutting room to maintain freshness and proper temperature. Chef Phenis recommends the Peekytoe crab Louis appetizer with avocado and scallion oil ($9.50). Pier W serves the true species of crab that can only be caught off the coast of Maine.

Other items on the appetizer menu include fish tacos prepared with halibut, avocado, salsa and micro cilantro in a crisp wonton shell ($8.50), pan-seared blue lump crab cakes ($12) and fried calamari served with a sweet and spicy tamarind dipping sauce ($9.50). Ahi tuna and smoked salmon tartare ($9) is flavored with sesame seeds, citrus aioli and yuzu, a Japanese fermented orange juice. Wood-roasted heirloom beets are paired with goat cheese, aged balsamic vinegar and dill oil ($8).

A new entree that has already emerged as a favorite is the Great Lakes walleye Meyer lemon tempura ($24). Georges Banks cod is paired with Portuguese chorizo sausage, mussels and clams ($24). Pappardele pasta is enriched by the addition of chunks of fresh Maine lobster, roasted red peppers, French green beans and a light cognac cream sauce ($28). A 16-ounce prime center cut strip steak is served with braised spinach, oven-roasted Yukon Gold potatoes and a red wine sauce ($39). All entrees include Pier W's mesclun greens salad with sesame soy vinaigrette dressing.

Chef Phenis, a 1997 graduate of the Culinary Institute of America, became executive chef at Pier W in 2003. He has worked as a chef at other restaurants in Chicago, Boston and Baltimore. "Everything I've learned, practiced and envisioned during my career culminates in the reopening of Pier W," he said. "I'm honored to be at the helm kicking off another 40 years of incredible cuisine."

Pier W, located at 12700 Lake Avenue at Winton Place, is open for dinner on Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 11 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to midnight, and on Sunday from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. All major credit cards are honored. The restaurant is wheelchair accessible. Phone (216) 228-2250 for recommended reservations.