Turn to the West End for great tavern fare
By Cynthia Schuter-Eakin
happenings
Published Sept. 21, 2005

Back in Cleveland’s early days, taverns were places along the road where travelers could seek shelter for the night, a bite of food and rest for the next day’s journey.

Nowadays, taverns are mostly neighborhood establishments where regulars can find the companionship of neighbors and friends, a little liquid libation and food, if you like fried and not fancy.

The West End Tavern, 18514 Detroit Avenue in Lakewood, stands out from the rest because of the conviviality of owner Parnell Egan and because of the quality of its food. The kitchen turns out a product that is way beyond what one expects as typical tavern fare. Take the black bean soup, for example. The dark, flavorful broth is steeped in spices, with onions and chunks of hot sausage, and served with a dollop of sour cream for added richness $3.50 a bowl). Another signature dish is the West End’s Cajun stew. The unique concoction ($4.50 a bowl) is a “warm” blend of spicy sausage, chicken, tomatoes, rice, potatoes, onions and fresh herbs and spices.

Appetizers include two dozen Prince Edward Island mussels steamed in seasoned broth and served with toasted garlic parmesan bread for dipping ($6.95). Sizzling button mushrooms sprinkled with garlic and herbs and served crackling in a cast iron skillet with fresh parmesan cheese ($5.95) are a real treat. Try the blackened tuna fingers, made with bite-sized pieces of yellow fin tuna seasoned with Cajun spices and skillet blackened, then served with fresh lemon, rice and a creamy tarragon sauce ($7.95).The tavern’s “bubble” bread is French bread that is butter-toasted and sprinkled with a blend of cheeses, then finished under the broiler until it is a bubbly golden brown ($5.95).

The California cobb salad is one of the best in town. The creation of the original Brown Derby restaurant in Los Angeles in the 1950s, the cobb salad is fresh greens topped with chicken breast chunks, crisp bacon, sliced hard-boiled egg, fresh tomatoes and shredded cheeses. Priced at $5.95, it is a bargain. I finished half of the salad for my lunch, leaving the other half for another meal. A friend enjoyed the day’s omelette du jour. The light and airy creation was filled with chunks of fresh vegetables and cheeses and served with toasted French bread and homemade hash brown potatoes.

For my money, the West End burger ($6.95) is certainly among the best. They start with a half pound of Black Angus beef and hand shape it for perfect grilling. It is broiled to your desired temperature and served on a bun baked and delivered fresh daily from Mazzone’s Bakery. The bun is lightly buttered and griddle toasted to crispness. Top that with fresh lettuce, a slice of raw Vidalia onions and a slice of vine-ripened tomato and you have one heck of a meal. Crumbled bleu cheese and grilled mushrooms are optional. The menu also offers a smaller Wimpy burger at $5.50.

Another favorite at the West End Tavern is the Jamaican jerk chicken sandwich, prepared with a signature marinade and broiled, then served with your choice of side dish ($6.95). The barbecued pork sandwich is made with slow-roasted pork loin that is pulled and shredded and dredged in barbecue sauce ($6.95). The West End makes its grilled cheese sandwich with your choice of three cheeses on thick, buttered toast ($4.95).

Luncheon diners can get smaller portions of regularly offered comfort foods like tender pot roast with buttermilk mashed potatoes and meatloaf topped with onion rings and barbecue gravy.

Evening diners can enjoy entrees like broiled Atlantic grouper served with sautéed spinach and rice ($13.95), double-thick, center-cut pork chop ($13.95), and filet of top sirloin served with your choice of potato and a vegetable ($14.95). Lake Erie yellow perch sandwiches and dinners are available daily. Patrons can expect some new items to be added to the autumn menu, according to proprietor Egan. The tavern offers a short list of wines to complement your meal, as well as full bar service.

The West End Tavern is open for lunch and dinner. Saturday brunch, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., features a make-your-own Bloody Mary bar. Sunday brunch, served from 9:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. offers new entrée specials and mega Mimosas. Phone (216) 521-7684. Major credit cards are honored. The tavern is wheelchair accessible.