Fat Head’s Cleveland makes beer a fine art
By Cynthia Schuster-Eakin
Insights
Published April 2, 2008

Beer is more than just a beverage that you drink to quench your thirst, according to Matt Cole, head brewer and co-owner of Fat Head’s Cleveland Brewery and Saloon. He views it as liquid art.

Fat Head’s beer menu describes Cole’s unfiltered ales and lagers, brewed in small batches from the finest ingredients, as being, “inspired by old world tradition with cutting edge style, providing a global palette for your taste buds.”

Cole’s reputation as a beer artisan has won him many honors over the years, including during the 10 years he spent as the brewer at Rocky River Brewing Company. Most recently, Cole garnered top honors in the 12th Annual IPA Festival, a yearly tradition in the San Francisco Bay area.

The Bistro in Hayward, Calif., hosts the festival, a hophead’s dream come true with 62 Indian Pale Ales on tap. They shut down the streets, set up tents and professionally judge all 62 entries. Cole competed against the likes of Vinnie Calurzo of Russian River Brewing and Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head and walked away with the prize. It is the first time in the competition’s history that a non-California brewer has won a medal, let alone a gold.

All that you have to do to sample the award-winning Head Hunter IPA, described as an “uncivilized, aggressive, West Coast IPA, with big hop flavors of citrus, pine, grapefruit and pineapple,” is to stop by Fat Head’s location at 24581 Lorain Road in North Olmsted. Cole opened his brewery and restaurant in the former Danny Boy’s Farm Market.

The model for Fat Head’s Cleveland is a bar that Cole frequented when attending college in Pittsburgh, Fat Head’s on East Carson Street on Pittsburgh’s South Side. The bar serves 42 craft-brewed beers on tap and one hand-pumped ale. Cole teamed up with the owners of the Pittsburgh Fat Head’s to introduce their signature Headwiches, or sandwiches as big as your head, to the Cleveland area. In turn, Cole supplies the Pennsylvania saloon with his Cleveland-brewed beers. Other beers brewed by Cole include Voodoo Monkey Double Chocolate Stout, Sorcerer Belgian Style Dark Ale and Three Crowns Amber Lager.

Cole pays homage to Danny Boy’s, which occupied the site for 60 years, by displaying the original sign and many old photos of the market. The pictures are about all that will look familiar to former Danny Boy’s patrons. Fat Head’s has seating for 245 patrons, with a large bar occupying the center of the building.

Derek Wilson, partner and chef at the Cleveland Fat Head’s, is a veteran of Sushi Rock and Great Lakes Brewing Company. He has added his own twists to the menu, including barbecue cooked in a real pit smoker and pizza prepared from sourdough starter and baked in a commercial deck oven found at pizzerias.

Chicken wings, a signature dish, are dry rubbed and smoked or fried and smothered in sauce. The wings are so large that an order of five wings in Beastie Barbecue ($5.95) are filling enough for dinner.

Two soups are always on the menu. Chef Derek’s onion and ale soup is made with red and yellow onions, leeks and scallions, honey and fresh rosemary and topped with melted Swiss cheese. Chicken Parmesan soup blends tomato soup with chicken and Parmesan cheese, topped with broiled provolone ($4.95).

Our server recommended Fat Head’s original cheese steak, saying it is the best sandwich he has ever had. Shaved steak, green and hot peppers, mushrooms and onions, American and provolone cheese, lettuce, tomato, onion and mayonnaise are piled onto a hoagie bun ($9.95). Another option is the Brewben, with pastrami, melted Swiss, hot pepper sauerkraut, Thousand Island dressing and Cleveland’s Stadium Mustard on rye ($9.95). Danny Boy’s veggie sub is topped with portabella mushrooms, roasted red peppers, artichoke hearts, spinach, French fries, mozzarella cheese, vinaigrette dressing and herbed goat cheese spread ($9.95).

The South Side Slopes Headwich, a Fat Head’s Pittsburgh original, has been voted one of the best sandwiches in the U.S.A. by Maxim Magazine. It is kielbasa topped with sautéed pierogies and onions, American cheese and horseradish sauce ($9.95). Chef Derek has added the Full Cleveland, about a pound of kielbasa and bratwurst with hot pepper kraut, melted Swiss, Thousand Island dressing and Stadium Mustard ($10.95).

The Parma Sutra burger is a half pound of beef with sharp cheddar and bacon, topped with sautéed onions, a pierogi and horsey sauce ($8.95). Killer chicken is grilled chicken breast with ham, Swiss cheese, roasted red peppers and spicy Killer wing sauce, with cool ranch dressing on the side ($9.95).

Fat Head’s Cleveland is open daily for lunch and dinner. Major credit cards are accepted. Call (440) 801-1001.